Lucky in Kentucky/Spoiled Rotten in Tennessee

Following a hasty Little Rock getaway on October 12th, I drove straight through to Dover TN then did a quick scout of the southern tip of Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area at dusk. 

I checked into the Dover Inn Motel and fixed dinner in my room from the assorted provisions in my WalMart styro cooler. The main course was mixed nuts that Ann David had packed for me in OK. It had been a very long day and I was bone-tarred.

The scouting thing had done little to help me plan for the next morning's ride. So I fretted a bit then found the map that I had printed out from the website back in July and spent an hour or so cobbling together some mileage info. from the map and made a pro forma plan for the Kentucky ride. Finally I pulled up the covers and rolled over to go nightie and the last thing that went through my mind was, "Oh crap. My ride plan is in Tennessee and I've come here to ride Kentucky."

You see, LBL is carved from three states: TN, IL and KY. The KY border is a good 15 miles north of Dover but my web map didn't show that, so my well planned ride was not actually in Kentucky.

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Mornings are a wonderful thing. Even when it's overcast and the weather forecast is for rain and possible thunderstorms through noon. What makes mornings on the road even better is the free breakfasts that most budget and mid-price inns offer these days.

At the Dover Inn Motel the fare is pretty basic and the toaster only toasts on one side of the bread. There are two tables in the vestibule which is where you dine. I picked up the local paper that was laying outside the office door and joined a couple in the vestibule who told me about the toaster and pointed out where the jugs of O.J. and milk were kept. There were a few doughnuts, some wheat chex and a loaf of white bread all lovingly put out for us. I spread out the paper and got caught up on the local news and pushed the envelope by having a second cup of O.J. and a refill on my coffee.

As I was waiting for my semi-toast to caramelize, a 20-something lad in casual attire entered the vestibule, and went right to the glassed-in counter and mashed the little button that you use to summon the innkeeper from her quarters. Soon the young proprietress, with her 2 yr. old on hip, came out and answered the guest's question, "Do y'all have any Tylenol?" with an empathetic, "I'm sorry we don't."

The lad was fretting, his mission facing failure. I strongly felt that it was not he who required the pain killer, but more likely a companion back in the room.  At all events I took a break from applying margarine to the dark side of my toast and said, "I've got some Extra Strength Tylenol here in my pocket, may I give you some?" I actually did have a vial of it on me. And he actually did take a pair of caplets with great thanks and the offer of a dollar which I refused. 

While this exchange was transpiring, the couple with the toaster expertise departed and a new couple arrived. They're about my age. 

Within the span of mere moments I learned that they occupied the room next to mine; the candy apple red Gold Wing tricycle touring motorcycle with the towed trailer was theirs; and that they were from Illinois and were headed to a family reunion in Alabama. Oh, and she's an accountant and he's retired.

At some point I wedged in a brief explanation of BikerBuck's 50-50 but I did a clumsy job of it because they asked lots of questions about the motorcycle I was using (and where the heck was it?) and mainly they wanted to know about Hawaii and where could they rent a motorcycle there. They are fine people, let me be clear about that. And friendly and honest and dedicated to their lifestyle. 

Encountering them, as it is with all intercourse on the road, is the bedrock of BikerBuck's 50-50 experience. Heck, anyone can jump on a bicycle and with a few training rides take on a 50 kilometer ride in any given place. But when you undertake the journey to put yourself in position to take a bike ride in an unfamiliar place, then you are rewarded with the interaction with folks who enrich your life through your interaction with theirs.

The Trace is the road that is the "spine" of LBL that connects Dover and Grand River. It is reported to have been part of the Underground Railroad (route shown as a black line) during the period of slavery in the South. That fact is confirmed by staff members, verbally, at the LBL Visitor Center, but there is no mention of it in the Center's historical presentation. I rode a section of The Trace in Kentucky on Oct. 13th, 2011.

 

Furnaces such as this are preserved at several locations. Ore from nearby mines was smelted to make iron that was used in building rails, machinery, cannon balls, and other useful items of the times.

Kentucky Lake is basically a wide spot in the Tennessee River, and it is on the west side of the LBL. The National Recreation Area is the longest inland peninsula in North America, surrounded by one of the world's largest man-made bodies of water.

I  rode down to Sugar Bay, on the Kentucky Lake (east) side of The Trace. It's a pristine camping and fishing spot and the anglers I met there are cordial and dedicated to their outdoor lifestyle.

Taylor Bay on the Lake Barkley (west) side of LBL is another of the bucolic outdoor recreation facilities.  It's hard to imagine a more perfect place to enjoy natural surroundings and a rejuvenating outing.

Luckily it did not rain on BikerBuck in Kentucky and, moreover, I was able to complete a 50km ride and make it back to the Dover Inn Motel in time to clean up and check out by 2:00 pm, thereby getting the special $20 rate for a 3 hr. late checkout. The regular late rate is $10 per hour. Am I one lucky guy or what?

A couple of hours later I arrived at the home of Marge and Charlie Wilson in Nashville TN. BB and Marge were classmates at Aiken High School and have kept up with one another at reunion events.  They took BB on a sundown tour of amazing Nashville, the town we all know as "Music City", but it's way more than just music that keeps this city hoppin'.


The next morning was road time again - to spend a long weekend in Knoxville with daughter Sara, Rick and Kali. On the way BB had coffee with Elizabeth and Jim Mancuso.  In Honolulu, Beth and BB worked together in advertising and Jim managed the Symphony. Nashville affords them expanded opportunities in their fields and their daughter Lucy is diggin' first grade.


The NC/TN time was wonderful. How lucky can one guy get?

Rockin' Little Rock

 If you're thinking Hick City, think again. To go along with all the natural beauty of Arkansas, Little Rock is a spiffy, energetic, historic and thoroughly modern river-town.

My first stop was River Trail Bike Rentals where my new best bike friend David helped get me oriented and planned the perfect route for BikerBuck's 25th state. (Yup, half-way home as of today.)

The Arkansas River is big, bold and beautiful despite the overcast sky today. And it runs right along Little Rock's downtown, with numerous road and rail bridges connecting the up and coming North side, where I stayed, with the happenin' historic south bank. I took an old fashioned trolley from right next door to my hotel over to downtown and got an historic tour narrated by our indefatigable engineer. The restaurants were jumpin' and there was an all around great vibe from the swank Peabody Hotel to the Cheers-worthy tavern where I had supper and struck up a lively conversation with the traveling liquor salesmen next to me. 

Right. Now, where was I...oh the 50k ride. Well I picked up the Trail right across the street from the remarkably affordable Wyndam and headed west to the Big Dam Bridge. And it certainly is. I picked up the South bank trail up to Twin Rivers Island and enjoyed the pristine park with its special treats...

...like this nature park loop that doubles as a jogging trail and great classroom venues for outdoor ed.

Did I mention that Bill and Hilary keep a house in Little Rock? (So he can bop in to his new Library when he's in town and be home in time for supper.) I think that's their place in this photo, on the ridge above the trail.

Where is it written that every nice river or lake trail must be accompanied by a golf course? We saw that  in Topeka, and also Iowa and in OK City and near the Fox River in IL, and now Little Rock. I smell a politico quid pro quo. Ya think?

And while we're at it I must confess my own obsession with mansions on river bank ridges. Like in Knoxville, now Little Rock, and lots more you haven't seen.  I'll admit I'm a sucker for an ocean view...guess there are lots like me, but with no ocean handy the river will have to do. 

I'm in Dover TN tonight, planning to ride a piece of The Trace on the KY part of Land Between the Lakes NRA in the morning. Rain's in the forecast. Welcome to BikerBuck's Water World.

Okie Dokie, Smokey

BikerBuck's Yukon,OK cousin Tom was proud to show off downtown Oklahoma City and its spiffy bikeway that runs for about 10 miles on each side of the Oklahoma River.

The trail is excellent in concept/design and is a pure pleasure to ride...

...and to access the river's attractions along the way.

Kids like Smokey here learn to kayak, or ELSE.

Tom and I wrapped up 28km on the River Trail, then headed across town to the second part of the Oklahoma ride...a Lake Trail.

The city does a splendid job of integrating healthful recreation with its unique water features.  Or, in some years, it's long brown beaches.

Just minutes from downtown, Lake Hefner is a boating and fishing lake, with a lovely 9.2 mile cycling/walking loop trail that is very well used.

 

Oh, and a perky golf course as well.

A drought, no doubt.

Oklahoma was not spared from the extraordinary dry spell this year. Lake Hefner's water level was down considerably, leaving some fishermen and sailors literally high and dry.

Nonetheless, Oklahoma City's River and Lake trails - and my cousin Tom David - made for a blue ribbon day.  Way better than just OK.

Red River Route

Howdy!

 They say, "You can always tell a Texan...'course you cain't tell 'em much."  Well here's a news flash about BikerBuck: I'm a Texan.

It's true. Born in Dallas, worked in Dallas and Houston, plenty of kinfolks there.

But my father and all his family is from Oklahoma. So when one of my Oklahoma cousins and his wife invited me to join him at the Oklahoma-Texas football game - arguably the premiere college football rivalry game in the land - I was quick to say yes. The game took place just two days after a delightful visit with Texas kin and friends.  Well just color me CONFLICTED.....

.....but not for long.

The Red River Rivalry is always played at a geographically neutral place, The Cotton Bowl in Dallas, which is literally half way between the schools.  Moreover, unlike contests that use a home-and-away format for their BIG GAME, both Texas and Oklahoma get equal numbers of tickets, so the always sold out seats are split at the 50 yard line into two sections. All the Texas fans in orange, the Oklahoma faithful in OU red.  Guess which section I was in.

 The Cotton Bowl is located on the site of the State Fair of Texas. It's an historic place with astounding architecture, facilities, thrilling rides, and unique cuisine.

"Well I'll swan!" my mother used to say whenever something astonished her.

The big seller this year was Fried Bubble Gum. Last year it was Fried Butter. I'm not making this up. We couldn't get close enough to that booth to get a photo. The old favorites are also available: Fried Twinkies and Fried Pudding. (OK, I made one of these items up, guess which one and win valuable prizes.)

It was everything I imagined it would be. Times plenty. The game itself was a blowout as my Sooners kicked some serious donkey out there and made their fans real happy.  The Texas crowd took it well. Only about ten thousand of them lined up to take a swan dive off of Big Tex's hat brim.

This is a seriously tall hombre.

Thanks, Jeff Laird.

I left the Sooner's headquarters hotel bright and cloudy on Sunday morning and had a soggy but uneventful drive up to Yukon, OK to visit cousin Tom and his wife Ann for a couple of days. The plan is for Tom to join me on my Oklahoma 50k tomorrow.

Tom and I used to travel the route alternately spending summer vacations at one an other's homes, his in Shawnee OK and mine in Dallas. We're blessed with rich memories and a solid foundation of family values forged as much by our differences as our similarities.

The route was the one that our family used to take when we drove up to visit Grandmother and all the aunts, uncles and cousins in Ada, OK. Sometimes we took the train up and I remember the conductor use to announce our stop in Ardmore, OK by calling out, "Ahh'd MO!"  My sister and I would wait for him to pass and then mimic, "Ah'd MOW the lawn if ah wudden so tard." I said that out loud today, several times, in the car. 

The route crosses the Red River...moreover it transports you over a threshold that separates two contiguous states with two totally unique cultures. You have to live it to get it. The distinctions between a Texan and an Okie are profound. In a uniquely American way I suppose. But to go back over this route today and refresh my memories of a childhood forged from these differences has been elegant.

Take a tip from a Texan: Go to your team's next big rivalry game. Enjoy every delicious moment of it. But if your team doesn't win, stay away from Big Tex.

Texas Tamed

I checked in to the Dallas Hilton Lincoln Center about noon today but my room was not ready and I was working against time to get Texas ridden. So...I did my Superman thing and dashed into the lobby men's room, changed into my riding duds, presented my luggage to the desk clerk for safe keeping, and beat feet for Lake View Park which was a not far away. It's the starting point for the White Rock Creek Trail, which connects to the White Rock Lake Trail plus a new trail extension through several neighborhoods.

Mighty pretty, partner.

White Rock Lake is delightful, with lots of activity areas easily accessible. 

Some of the loveliest homes in Dallas are located at White Rock Lake.

There were a couple of exciting detours due to heavy road construction in the area, but overall it was a great ride on a fine route. It was my first full 50k in 3 months so I was cruising for comfort. My room was ready when I got back to the hotel. And my Oklahoma cousin and his wife had checked in to the adjoining room. It's the Texas-Oklahoma college football weekend here, and our hotel is ground zero for the Sooner fans.  It's an amazing event. We're going to the game tomorrow, I'll share the story next.

Waitin' in Waco/Surprising Salado

I had scouted the Woodward/McGregor Loop on my first afternoon, Oct. 5th, in Waco TX, and got up bright and early the next morning to get some Lone Star miles under my big-buckled belt.  But no. The tire pressure light on the mini van's dashboard dashed my day. Turns out I had to spend all morning getting 3 very troublesome tires replaced. Needless to say I rather stood out in the customer lounge in my bright yellow jersey and riding pants. But we got 'er done and I was left with about 45 minutes to explore Waco before heading off to my next place.

I found Baylor.

That's right, I drove to the Baylor University campus, slid the mini-van in a 15 minute parking slot near the bookstore, pulled out the Novara Jazz and took a spin around as much of the place as I could cover in a quarter hour. Managed to snap this pix of the founder and one of the beautiful classic buildings. 

The University has a sweet vibe that comes across quickly.  The students look sharp and busy.  

I toyed with the idea of trying to find the site of the Branch Davidian compound that was torched by the ATF in what became a great embarassment for Janet Reno and of course cost some lives. Come to find out that the site has been completely "erased" from the face of the place and some nondescript use is being made of it.  It is a topic that is simply not discussed by Wacovians.

High tailed it down to Salado TX where I met up with friends and relatives at Fletchers Book Store which has been there since the War. (Between the States)

Had a lovely time and relaxing dinner with my cousin Janet and her husband Joey Allen who drove up from Corpus just to say howdy; and our mutual friends Mike and T-9-E Cooper who live in Salado. (She has been called "Teeniny" since birth - turns out there are various spellings of that name.)  Had a really fine visit with them and now have a new understanding of the real estate term, "hidden jewel." Historic Salado is more jewel than hidden - put it on your list of future pleasant surprises. Our efficient departure on Friday morning did not leave time for a photo and I'm sad about that.

Casey at the Wrench

 

Hats off to Casey at Better Bikes in Humble, TX for putting together a fantastic ride for BikerBuck's Southern Comfort.

Strait Talk

So what does BikerBuck do when he's not riding or RV-ing?

Could I interest you in a little kayak trip....

 What luck!  In early September a few last minute openings gave our good friends Mia and John Frishholz and me the opportunity to join a six-day kayaking tour run by Quadra Island's own Spirit of the West Adventures.  It is the jewel of SOW's world class offerings and we were thrilled to sign up on two days' notice.

Our Johnstone Strait Expedition departed via water taxi from Telegraph Cove on the northeast tip of Vancouver Island. We spent the first night at the Paddlers' Inn, about 20 miles up through the magical Broughton Archipelago. 

The next five days were extraordinary. Leisurely paddling among the hundreds of islands, stopping here and there for breaks and lunch, camping at different spots each night.

Eagles, humpback whales, harbor porpoise, seals, sea lions and a brief look at a pod of killer whales were the seascape from sunrise to sunset. The sights, sounds and smells were sumptuous.

Morning mists lifted by noon, each day more stunning than the last. Shore side excursions provided a probe into the ecology and history of the First Nations generations that have occupied this incredibly rich and challenging place for centuries. 

Our paddlers pod of nine plus our two remarkable guides, who double as plein aire chefs du cuisine, bonded at once. The practice of leave-no-trace, expedition style adventuring is the ultimate wake up call in pursuit of environmental awareness. We all agreed that this is one leisure experience that belongs on everyone's bucket list - and the sooner the better.

We heartily recommend Spirit of West and urge our good friends to consider an adventure with them. And how about a pre/post here with us on Quadra Island? Check out http://www.kayakingtours.com

BikerBuck is back on the road for Southern Comfort in his birthplace, Texas, on October 5 . Just remember, you can always tell a Texan. Course you can't tell 'em much.